Synopsis

Source of validity: Scientific
Rating (out of 5): 2

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, are used in dermatology for their exfoliating properties. Scientific evidence for their use in dandruff management centers on their ability to promote desquamation (the shedding of outer skin layers), thereby helping to remove scales and flakes commonly associated with dandruff. Several small clinical studies and case reports suggest that topical application of AHAs can reduce scalp scaling and improve the appearance of dandruff. These acids work by loosening the bonds between corneocytes (dead skin cells), which aids in the removal of excess stratum corneum and helps normalize the scalp’s skin cell turnover, which is often accelerated in dandruff.

However, the quality and quantity of evidence are limited. Most studies have been small, short-term, and lack large-scale randomized controlled trials directly comparing AHAs to standard dandruff treatments such as antifungal shampoos. AHAs are not considered first-line therapy but may be beneficial as adjuncts, particularly for individuals with thick scaling or resistant cases. They are sometimes found in over-the-counter scalp exfoliating products advertised for dandruff. Side effects, such as irritation or increased sensitivity, can occur, especially at higher concentrations.

In summary, there is modest scientific support for the use of AHAs in dandruff, primarily due to their keratolytic (exfoliating) effects, but stronger clinical evidence is needed before they can be recommended as stand-alone treatments.

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